Fresh Air and Social Obligations

In public school this year, I've noticed the staff organise a lot of events together. Last year, in the private school, I met my boss and coworkers for lunch only one time for my going away but now it seems like every other week there's some school dinner planned.

Last week, the students had a midterm test and so my classes were canceled. The principal organized a mandatory hike for the school staff following the exams. We worked in the morning, but after lunch gathered in front of the school in comfortable clothing to carpool to the mountain. In Korea, they take hiking seriously, and I was a little nervous about the seriousness of this one. They certainly looked serious about it, in their hiking pants and visors. I wore loose-fitting jeans and a sweatshirt because I don’t own hiking-specific attire and shorts would’ve been inappropriate.

waiting to leave

The mountain was just a short ride away – you can actually see it from our school. We split into two groups planning to meet further up the mountain for a break. I walked along and chatted with my co-teachers. Min-hye and Ms Yang had not been prepared for the trip because they normally taught a class in the afternoon. The class was canceled last minute and they came along reluctantly. It was very warm out and humid and my worries about trekking up a mountain with hiking experts faded as soon as we set off. The pace was a crawl but it was a beautiful day and I was grateful to be outside instead of in front of my computer screen.

When we made it to the meet-up point, the principal and vice principal were drinking makoli (a traditional Korean rice-wine) at a nearby food stand as the others filled up their water bottles. As I chatted with Choi, I heard, “waygookin” [Korean for “foreigner”] and a chuckle and before I knew it I was being pulled away by the arm and led into the foodstand. The principal was sitting down and I was nervous as I always am in front of him because he is greatly respected and there are probably 100 different ways I could be unknowingly offensive. The VP gave me an empty makoli bowl and I held it politely with two hands and avoided eye-contact as he poured me a drink. Then it was full to the brim and they all waited expectantly for me to drink. I took a sip and smiled politely. “It’s good?” they all wanted to know. “Yes, yes, it’s delicious,” I said. But of course they’d all finished and I was encouraged to drink quickly. I chugged the bowl of fizzy fermented rice wine and tried not to let my eyes water too much.

the foodstand

a fourth grade teacher downs the last of his makoli

We were off again! My coteachers laughed at me having drunk the wine and Choi said good naturedly that I would have a headache afterward and that I should drink plenty of water and “Breathe in, breathe out.” I was fine and the slow plod up the hill wasn’t difficult. My coteachers let me in on a secret, “The first strategy is to stay at the back of the group,” they said. “The principal is going to the top, but we don’t want to.” We hung back and let about 15 teachers who were walking with the principal pull ahead. We reached a fork in the trail and let the them round the corner headed for the peak… and then we took the other route! “We’ll meet them at the restaurant,” Ms An said. I didn’t mind one bit!

Min-hye and Choi. We took a non-traditional path back down.

It was a really nice hike and we got to see a lot of flowers and trees. I mostly appreciated the time to get to know my coteachers a little better. Min-hye said we were lucky because last year the trip was a lot harder and everyone was sweating. Two hours later we were back down and ready to eat at the restaurant. I was informed that it was a “duck barbecue” restaurant, a detail that delighted me. Always happy to try something new!

We arrived to find a few others had already made it back but the principal had yet to join us. We would have to wait. Even on a normal school day, everyone must wait for the principal to start eating first, which is why we usually arrive late! It was only 4:45 but my stomach was growling. Everyone looked tired. He finally arrived a little after 5 and the waitstaff started bringing out the food. We had endless amounts of side dishes and finally big plates of raw duck slices. We cooked the meat on the little grill set into our table. Ms Yang added raw cloves of [peeled] garlic and kimchi to the fire as well. We all helped turn the meat and then helped ourselves. I watched the others to see how to eat. Duck, kimchi, onion and soybean paste were wrapped in lettuce making little green packages. (The chipmunk-cheek effect is a normal part of eating Korean barbeque.) We ate and ate and just when I thought we couldn’t possibly eat more, they brought out fresh trays of meat! When finally even that was finished, a waiter came by to take our orders for soup so Min-hye and I split a bowl of Naengmyeon, which is a cold wheat noodle soup. The noodles are long and chewy and need to be cut with scissors before eating to make them manageable. When it’s served, some of the tangy broth is still frozen in a sort of slush and there’s usually half of a hard-boiled egg sitting on top of the noodles. Delish! When that was finished, I felt I was going to explode, but luckily the dinner had come to an end.

Duck Barbecue restaurant!

our spread

However, there was still a matter of leaving, which for some reason always poses problems! As I said before, the principal commands a great deal of respect as the leader of the school. When Ms An led a group of women to stand up and head for the door, a loud “EAHHH!” was heard from the principal’s table and they all rushed to sit down smiling sheepishly. They all wanted to leave. It was 6:30 afterall- 2 hours later than we normally leave work. But the principal wouldn’t allow it. I joked to Ms An that she should sneak out on her hands and knees, and the next thing I knew she was crawling away from the table toward the door. The principal shouted something at her, and she stood up bowing a few times and murmuring lots of polite things I didn’t understand before slipping out. The other teachers looked longingly after her but didn’t dare move. A few minutes later, the principal and vice principal stood up to give closing speeches and release us from our obligations. Of course, our table felt too guilty to attempt another escape until after another table made it successfully. During the speeches, Choi leaned over to me and said, “Alice, we need another strategy.” I was confused but she explained that the vice principal wanted us to continue socializing at a nearby Norebang, or Karaoke room. What?! “I’m not going to that!” I said, and she agreed. She and Min-hye said we’d have to make an escape after dinner.

Me, Min-hye and Choi

Ms Yang and Ms An, post meal.

I thought they were joking but as soon as we left the room, they quickly put their shoes on and rushed outside. In the parkinglot Choi half ran to the street and I noticed about 10 other teachers giggling nervously as they raced to their cars. I asked Min-hye, “If he sees you, will you have to go?” and she just nodded and looked back toward the restaurant. Oh the social obligations of the Korean worker! I wanted to wait for Ms Jung, who would have been headed my direction, but decided I couldn’t risk being spotted by the principal and getting roped into another few hours of alcohol and karaoke! I ran away with Min-hye and Choi. As their bus approached, they asked what I’d do, and I said I might hide in my hood. Choi, joked, “You’ll be too obvious!” Luckily my bus was right behind and I didn’t have to test that strategy. 

Cherry Blossom Season!

I've been outside every chance I get to take pictures of the trees while they're in bloom. Last year I missed them while I was in the hospital and I want to make up for what I missed! 

Sandra has humored me and we've been out to see them at multiple "viewing spots" around the city. She jokes that they're everywhere and it's true, but I feel somehow it's different if I see them in a different neighborhood. 

I love the way they soften the trees, like pink clouds of cotton candy. It makes me feel like I'm living in a fairy land and has definitely enhanced my love of Spring. 

Now the flowers are starting to fall off the branches and they come down in big shimmery clouds of petals. 

The path up to my school.

Two of my co-teachers walking back to school after a lunch out.

Cherry tree lined street near some apartments.

Sandra and me.

latest attempt at watercolor. (not a cherry-blossom!) Flower  outside my apartment. 

Friendly Faces

I ride the bus to school every day with a woman from school, Mrs. Jung. She works in the administration office, and lives in a massive 30-story apartment complex near my building. Apparently, she was the one who recommended my apartment to the school board when they were thinking of changing it from last year’s. I’m grateful every day that she did, because it’s a brand-new little studio in an excellent location. Not to mention that the previous English teacher said the old apartment was a bit of a dive.

From the beginning, Mrs. Jung has been especially friendly to me. Koreans are quite reserved in general, but I must have a free pass for being foreign, or else I stumbled on an exception to the rule! I lost my bus card last week and she paid for me even when I showed her I had the cash. This week she took me out for dinner after work and made me take home the leftovers. I asked her where the post-office was one day on my way home from school and she walked with me to find it even though it was far out of her way. We ride the bus to school, but generally carpool home with the vice-principal and a few other teachers. Yesterday she treated the 5 of us to a delicious dinner of 쌈밥 [ssam-bap], a dish of rice and marinated meat wrapped in greens.

Vice-Principal (back left) and Mrs Jung (front right). That's my backpack on the floor!

And she isn’t the only one who’s been helpful. The entire school staff, it seems, is overjoyed to see me everyday. They smile so wide their eyes disappear and bow as we cross paths. Some of them greet me in Korean and bow, while others will hazard a “Hello.” I try to mimic whoever approaches me but sometimes get confused and end up doing everything at once. “Hello-annyeonghaseo-hi!” Bow-wave-bow-smile. The students, likewise, bow mid-run or just shout “Hello teacher!!!” as they thunder past. When I was first introduced to the students the principal used my full name and now murmurs of “Al-EE-ss Oh-lee-buh!” travel across the playground when I arrive and really anywhere I go. Practically a celebrity!

A Korean English teacher working with a private company to put on afterschool programs, stopped me in the hall one day and gave me an iced-coffee! Did I mention my vice-principal gives me a ride home daily? Two of my 6^th grade students gave me a CD full of Korean pop music! And chocolate!

I’ve never felt more accepted in a new place, and I’m so thankful for the teacher who made a good impression before me, and for all the staff here who have been so warm and welcoming! I lucked out again!

A new medium

Watercolors are not my usual pick when I'm feeling artsy, but my mom was sweet enough to send me a set with some brushes so I'm experimenting! I was a doofus and sketched a few ideas out on regular drawing paper instead of heavy watercolor paper, so I had some trouble with absorption.

Fifth grade student at my school

This is really small- like 5 x 7". I've been challenged to do a small one every week, and so here's number one!

Guess who's back for Round 2?

I've gotta say, I'm thrilled to be back to Korea. Everything seems new again: I'm stuffing my face with kimchi and rice. I feel exhilarated after simple two-sentence conversations with new Korean coworkers. I'm snapping phone-camera pics of signs like this:

A lot of this is because coming to Korea the second time around is not scary like coming the first time is. I know how to use the subway and buses now. I've got enough Korean to get by and I knew what questions to ask when I moved into my new apartment (ie What day is compost recycling day? Koreans are excellent recyclers!) All of the hard stuff is already done, like bank accounts and phone contracts. The only thing left to worry about is the new job and it turns out, that it's a lot less stressful than last time as well! Hell, I've nothing to complain about!


So this year in Korea, it's a new job! Last year I was teaching in one of the private "cram schools," also known as, "hagwons," where students go to study in the afternoon after normal school hours. (Korean students are hard-core; many of them study from 8:30am to 7 or 8 or 9 at night!)  This year I'm employed by the government to work in the public schools assisting the Korean teachers.

There are many differences between the public and private school systems but one thing that stood out to me was the way they hire native teachers like myself. For instance, this year I actually got trained! For all the incoming teachers, the Korean government sponsors a 9-day orientation to Korean culture and teaching Korean students. And this was no week-long vacation! We were put through a rigorous schedule of lectures and lesson planning projects as well as cultural excursions and survival Korean classes!

We were issued matching grey sweatshirts for the duration of the training.

Much of the information was old news to me and the few others who had already lived here, but I think it was vital for the other 200 odd teachers just starting out. I was impressed with the organisation and money that went into preparing everything, but I was most excited to find out where I would be teaching. In public schools, we are not allowed to specify a location beyond a city name, so I was impatient to know where my new apartment was located and what age level I'd be working with. The organizers of orientation cruelly let everyone speculate until the very last day when we are each given envelopes with our new school name and contracts.

So where did I end up? At Choup Elementary School! I'm very pleased with my location this year: it's centrally located, close to my swing dancing venue and right next to an olympic sized swimming pool. I've got 3 fabulous new co-teachers and I'm teaching grades 3 through 6. It's been 3 weeks so far and I'm starting to settle in. Here's a little tour:

Haphazard shot of the front of my school. It's actually comprised of two 4-story buildings and one 2-story building which form a horseshoe around the playground. The whole lot is up a steep hill, about a 10 minute bus-ride from my apartment.  

Shot from my office. Before class starts in the morning, all the students walk in a big circle on the playground and they blast opera music from the loudspeakers. 

Some 4th graders outside their classroom. In Korea, everyone wears slippers in the house and the same goes for the schools. Their shoes go in little cubbies outside the homeroom. 

My classes this year are between 25 and 30 students. (They wear coats inside because the heating is not the greatest)

Typical school lunch: Bean sprouts, salty bean paste, kimchi, thinly sliced pork in chili sauce, rice and seaweed and soybean paste soup. This day we also had some lettuce which we ate filled with pork, rice and beanpaste. Delish!

Some of my new students! 

 Monday is the anniversary of the day our school was opened so we get the day off! It'll be a 3-day weekend for me so Sandra and I are planning a trip up to Seoul to sightsee a bit. I'll let you all know how it goes!

Back to our regularly scheduled programing

I've got some catching up to do, eh?

Well here's what you all missed while I've been away:

Home for the holidays!
Yes, after I finished my teaching contract in Korea, I spent a glorious 2 months back home in sunny Florida visiting my family. It was the first time I've been home and not been scrambling to find summer employment and can I just say: how relaxing! In celebration of this, I've decided to never seek seasonal work again, ever. It's so much better to seek seasonal relaxation, don't you think? We celebrated my favorite food holiday, Thanksgiving, and exchanged Christmas gifts a month later. I drank delicious American beer and ate popcorn with my mother daily. Heaven. Here are some highlights:

Me and the Sibs at the beach! I love Florida in the winter!

"Gemblo" the family game of strategically placed glittering bacteria 

No explanation needed?

Dad made everyone new tie-dye for Christmas!

Fáilte go hÉireann
In January I left the homeland to visit my girlfriend in Ireland. There we did important Irish things like visiting the Guinness Factory in Dublin and walking in muddy rain boots through green fields of sheep. Also this other important thing known as Meeting the Girlfriend's Parents. Of course, her family was so warm and welcoming and we drank a lot of tea while discussing the weather!

The Guinness factory was a little pricey but totally worth it for the panoramic view of the city at the end of the tour. (Of course, I'm showing you the beer, not the view. The beer is still important! 

We drove around the Ring of Kerry one day and stopped frequently in tiny towns for refreshments and leg-stretching.

Cobh [pronounced "cove"], a small southern coastal town near Cork. Historically it has been visited by many great ships, including the Titanic!

More of the Ring of Kerry. It was winter when I was there but still so green!

And of course, we took advantage of some traditional Irish pizza. This one had full strips of bacon, none of that bacon bits crap.

Famille Francaise et al
In February I traveled to France to visit a few friends and my French host-family from '04-05! It felt strange and familiar to be back in the land of cheese and wine. I loved catching up with friends from college and gorging myself on Parisian pastries and chocolate. I spent a week visiting my host parents and, as luck would have it, two of my host-brothers had just come back from living abroad. Barni has been living in South Africa and is dating an Italian girl, and Coco was back from Mexico and skyping his Mexican sweetheart every night! Foreign girlfriends are clearly a trend! My host dad has finally retired an my host sister had a baby soon after I left! What a lot of big adventures, eh?  We did a lot of sightseeing while I was in Paris, as my host-mom says I'm her "excuse" to be a tourist.

Astou was a glorious hostess while I was in Rouen. Highlights included stealing sand from a construction site through a fence with a spoon taped to a pole, and befriending French cats. 

Chantal and me at La Piscine, an old pool turned into a museum near Lille.

View from the top of the Musée d'Orsay, which I finally visited this time! I loved it. We arrived early one Sunday morning only to discover that the first Sunday of every month is free! What luck!

Chantal and Coco in a Brasserie in Lille. We treated ourselves after a morning spent hauling Coco's furniture down 6 flights of stairs and over to his new apartment. 

Visiting with a very pregnant Célestine, who recently gave birth to a beautiful baby boy, Ulysse. It was freezing and we weren't allowed into the park of the Château de Versailles (they were afraid of people falling into the pond) but we snapped a pic outside.

Another great thing that happened was a little mini-reunion of my old friends from my French high school when I lived there. They have barely kept in touch with each other but one of them came in 3 hours from out of town to have coffee with us. The more people I meet the more difficult it is to keep in touch with everyone, but then there are moments like this, where we come together after 7 years and It's as if nothing's changed. We spent the afternoon laughing and chatting about nothing and everything and what started as an early afternoon coffee morphed into a whole evening together. And the most amazing part? We hardly talked about high school at all! Contrary to my fears, our friendship has grown and matured as we have and it is no longer confined to a specific year in a specific milieu. How cool!

Can you guess where I am now?

Irish Football in Korea: never better

We went to Suwon last weekend, a city just south of Seoul, for the Asian Gaelic Games. During the summer, a group of Irish came together to form a team of Gaelic Footballers. They accumulated more members (of various nationalities) over the next few months, training every Saturday. We had a mini-tournament in August with the other teams in Korea, but on October 15th, we participated in the largest Gaelic football tournament in Asia, with teams from 14 different countries like Qatar, Singapore, Mongolia, Taiwan and Japan.  Busan team didn't have high expectations, as we were newly formed and most of us were still learning the basic skills... and rules of the game. But we made it to the QUARTER FINALS! And the men's team went to the semi's! It was a great weekend, but after 5 games we were exhausted.

We owe our 3/5 wins to Jackie, the only one among us who has any idea what she's doing - but more than that, she played in the senior county league back in Ireland. She's good (see above, the blond amazon annihilating everyone in her path). She has coached and encouraged us the whole way and we can only hope she comes back next year to do it again!

For those who are curious: In a nutshell, Gaelic football is rugby and soccer with a bit of basketball and volleyball thrown in. We score points in and over a goal and between rugby posts and the ball is moved around with our fists or feet. Here's a good clip to see it in action. We've had so much fun training and I've met the best group of women. I can't wait to start again next spring!

*First two photos taken by Kyle Schmitz, our faithful football photographer.